The History of Pork Scratchings from Hairy Bar Snacks

The History of Pork Scratchings (1800s)

The History of Pork Scratchings is clouded in mystery, but the consensus of opinion is that pork scratchings originated in the West Midlands or Black Country, England. The Black Country refers to a region covering most of the four Metropolitan Boroughs of Dudley, Sandwell, Walsall and Wolverhampton, and is named after its roots in the industrial revolution and the continuing role as a centre of heavy engineering and mining which in days gone by was said to cover the area in grime and soot (which is black).

It would seem that Pork Scratchings were very much a food of the working classes with origins back in the 1800's when it was produced as part of the tradition of families keeping their own pig at home then feeding it up for slaughter. Not wanting any waste, all the parts of the pig would be used if possible. Not just the offal would be used (which these days can be seen as a delicacy epitomised by the London restaurants, St. John & Hereford Road), but the skin would also transform itself from waste to wonder.

The past production of pork scratchings (1930s)

Butchers started selling Pork Scratchings in the 1930s, calling it Crackling (A word synonymous with pork scratchings in the UK). Sometimes hot (temperature wise), if you arrived soon after they had been cooked, but more often than not, they were served cold in a small paper bag. A tradition that still continues to this day, with the exception of the paper bag, being replaced by the shelf life giving properties of the plastic bag. Butchers scratchings are invariably a little bit hairy, randomly sized, with a soft fatty underneath and fresh crunchy on top.

A more modern production of pork scratching (1960s)

In modern times the fine layer of hair is removed from the skin by burning, however, this is not 100% effective and some pieces still have the hair attached. This definitely makes these snacks, not for the faint-hearted or weak stomached. A Hairy Pork Scratching can be loved or hated in equal measure. This is often the straw that breaks the camel's back for people who were wary of this delicacy from the beginning. They may try a scratching but will blurp at the thought of eating a hair.

A very recent history of pork scratchings production (gentrification / 2000s)

Recently pork scratchings have had a bit of a revival. During the time I have been building this site, they have gone from endangered species to totally commonplace. From small bags only found behind the bar on pub snack cards or if you lived a little further up north, the more homemade type bag with a bread bag top thingy, to now being found in supermarkets, to posh triple cooked and flavoured varieties.

It seems like everybody is making pork scratchings these days. I think the recent craft beer revival has something to do with this, because if people are willing to put their hand in their pocket for a craft beer, then a £2 bag of pork scratchings can't be far far behind.

The BBC have been talking about them (Radio4 interviewed me about them). Some people are even eating them as a diet food if they are on the keto / low carb diet.

When once we thought the days of the humble pork scratching might be numbered and they could unfortunately be consigned to history, today a revival is definitely underway. The rise and rise of luxury pork scratchings has gone from added flavours, to fresh versions available in the supermarket, to the now infamous pork scratching advent calendar!

What are Pork Scratchings?

Pork Scratchings are not the same Pork Rinds or Pork Crunch, even though they all are snack foods made from pig skin.
Pork Scratchings are made from deep-fried pig skin. They are cold, heavy, hard and have a crispy layer of fat under the skin. Sometimes there's a little bit of meat and if you are really lucky you might find a few hairs. Pork Scratchings are generally simply flavoured with salt and maybe some other basic seasoning. There are varieties that have additional flavourings, like you may expect from a packet of crisps.

What is Pork Crackling?

Pork Crackling (not the type you have with your roast pork) is a sub-type of pork scratchings, these are cooked twice or sometimes even three times. This makes the skin lighter, more bubbly, less dense. The fat layer is also cooked in such a way as to make the fat lighter and less oily. Pork crackling are pork scratchings that your nan could eat, because you don't really need teeth like Jaws.

What is Pork Crunch?

Pork Crunch (UK) or Pork Rinds (USA) have no meat, no fat, no hair, it's just the pig skin that's fried which then 'puffs up', they are then salted and/or flavoured.

What are Leaf Scratchings?

Leaf Scratchings are the rarest of scratchings. You never see them in the shops, and rarely in the butchers. We were sent some by Carl Mildner (a friend of the site) to try. You can read about the delivery here.
So because we are not experts in this type of scratching, we will leave it up to Sue Lowe. She tells ua all she knows about Leaf Scratchings here.

Country	Name
Americas
Brazil	Torresmo
Colombia	Chicharrones, Chicharrón Toteado (exploded pork crackling), Chicharrón Cocho
Canada	Scrunchions
Quebec	Oreilles de Christ (Christ Ears)
Mexico	Chicharrón or Chicharra
United States	Pork Rinds, Cracklings
Asia
Philippines	Chicharon
Thailand	Khaep mu
Vietnam	Pork Rinds
Europe
Bulgaria	Iprazhki
Serbia	čvarci, Duvan čvarci
Czech Republic	škvarky
Poland	Skwarki
France	Grattons
Spain	Cortezas de Cerdo, Chicharrones, Torreznos, Cotnes
Portugal	Torresmos, Couratos
The Netherlands & Belgium	Knabbelspek (nibbling bacon)
Denmark	Flæskesvær
Austria & Germany	Grammeln or Grieben, Schweinekrusten (pig crusts)
Romania	Jumări
United Kingdom	Pork Scratchings, Pork Crackling, Pork Crunch